stock-footage-coffee-pouring-bubblesEs algo ya muy evidente, por todos lados lo podemos ver sin importar la zona, ya no se trata de colonias hipster, de poder adquisitivo alto o de gente intelectual pensadora de izquierda, no,  el café de especialidad en México ya está por todos lados, quizá la ciudad donde más se ha desarrollado es en la Ciudad de México, abriendo camino, abriendo barras de especialidad más rápido de lo imaginado; y eso es muy bueno, pues está creando lugares con más conocimiento sobre su oficio. Pero… ¿y si? ¿De verdad estos lugares son lo mejor para probar un buen café? ¿De verdad hacen brillar todo el conocimiento supuestamente ya adquirido? ¿Utilizan el mejor café?

En los últimos meses hemos visto listas interminables con los mejores cafés del Df, cada vez más amplias pues las barras están abriendo de forma apresurada, y muchas de estas cada vez con más presupuesto, tienen las mejores máquinas de espresso, los mejores molinos con las muelas más precisas del mercado, los métodos más novedosos de asia, las mejores e importadas tazas y el café de la finca de moda o las que todos conocen… Si, cada vez prometen más con esas tecnologías y esos presupuestos. Pero, llegado el momento de probar tan esperados cafés, muchas veces llegamos a la decepción, muchas veces estos cafés son amargos, leche porosa y sin ninguna acidez.

Antes de continuar, debo mencionar que una de las personas que más me enseñaron y de forma siempre desinteresada el mundo del café, fue Aquiles González (Barista y Catador Q), quien siempre dejó bien en claro que un café especial debía tener acidez, de hecho recuerdo haber probado en su cafetería un café de esos que te dejan recordando el sabor para siempre, se trataba de un grano de finca La Herradura tostado por él mismo. Cuerpo medio, dulzura acaramelada y una acidez brillante y jugosa que hacia salivar de inmediato. Claro, no era un café que fuera para todos, tan bueno era que quizá la mayoría de la gente lo consideraría malo si no era guiado por alguien más conocedor; pero… ¿cómo es eso? ¿cómo puede ser tan bueno que la gente podría creer que es malo? La respuesta es simple, no a toda la gente le gusta el mejor vino, de hecho mucha gente se maravilla cuando prueba vinos con perfil a boing de uva con alcohol, claro que eso es un vino malo, muy malo, pero es un vino sencillo, fácil de entender para el paladar común, no hay sabores, sensaciones o aromas complejos, tan solo es dulce con su toque de alcohol.
En el café sucede lo mismo, la gente sigue pidiendo lo mismo, estamos acostumbrados a los sabores amargos y seguimos probando los mismos sabores en el café, estamos acostumbrados a lo malo y a seguir sufriendo. De hecho quizá es como en la vida diaria, la gente vota por el mismo partido, ve la misma televisión porque cree que es lo bueno o porque es lo que hay.

Hace poco tiempo me di a la tarea de visitar varias barras de café de especialidad que no me había dado tiempo de conocer, recorrí todas las que pude,  probé lo más que pude, casi en todos los casos era lo mismo, el café era muy intenso y muy amargo ¿pero cómo? Si se trata de cafés especiales, ¿o será que lo que me enseñaron ya cambió? Quizá la tendencia ahora es el amargor pensé. Lo más curioso de todo era que muchos de estos cafés amargos pertenecían a las barras más aclientadas y más nombradas por el mundo del internet, llegué a pensar que entre más bonita la barra y más hipsters sus baristas, más amargo era el café. Reflexione que todo cuadraba y tenía sentido, la razón es muy simple, muchos de estos lugares deben su éxito a eso mismo. El cliente habitual, el que consume cafés comunes, bebe ahora cafés “especiales” tan amargos como siempre, como le es fácil entenderlos, pero en una barra llena de métodos artesanales y un completo dominio del arte latte (figuritas con leche sobre el espresso), además de estar muy bonitas y a la moda, y claro, se le hace lo mejor que ha probado.
Entonces la labor del barista y de su cafetería se convierte contra el consumo de un café extraordinario, ya que si se supone que ellos elaboran los mejores cafés, entonces debe ser que el café debe de saber así, de sabores y aromas pobres. Ahora la labor de educar al cliente se vuelve más difícil para las barras que hacen mejor su trabajo.

Después de visitar esas barras visité otra más, muy cercana a mi cafetería en la colonia roma, muy bonita, muy agradable y muy hipster, tome un aeropress y un chemex: aromas florales, acidez citrica, excelente dulzura, buen cuerpo y cero amargor.  Volví a creer en la humanidad y que aunque más lento de lo que avanzan las “cafeterías de especialidad” el cliente de gusto educado y que prefiere cafés mejor preparados también está creciendo, más lento de lo que creemos pero creciendo. Salí de esa cafetería de especialidad muy contento y con gran sabor de boca pensando en escribir sobre ello y este artículo.

No es pedrada para nadie, no, mi intención no es atacar, mucho menos decir que barra es mejor que otra, tan solo es una reflexión que tenía desde hace tiempo y también es una invitación a probar sabores nuevos, a cambiar la rutina y las costumbres, por que existen cosas buenas más allá de lo conocido, pero es necesario tener los sentidos abiertos y aventurar para conocer y crecer.

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24 Comments

  1. 9-18-2015

    Acertada su reflexión, aunque yo solo soy un dilettante en el mundo del café, he notado, en mi visita a varias barras; granos mal tostados, métodos mal entendidos o mal ejecutados, y deficiente atención del barista. Antes el problema era hallar un “café de especialidad” ahora es encontrar uno bueno entre los muchos que hay. Pero, ya sabe usted, de lo bueno poco.

  2. 10-14-2015

    Me gusta tu punto de vista acerca del crecimiento acelerado del consumo de café y en efecto las mejores cafeterías DF según la mayoría de la gente va mas allá del sabor del café mismo. desde mi punto de vista se debe a que la moda oficinista demanda un café para cada uno es por ello que el consumo del café por moda hace que el consumidor catalogue las mejores cafeterías DF como las que ofrecen un plus a su estadía y no un plus al sabor.

    Saludos
    Daniel

  3. 11-11-2015

    Cual es la cafetería que mencionas te gusto en la Roma? Que te parece Cucurucho?

  4. 11-25-2015

    Pues yo si comi pan con Astra y Crema de Oro. Ambas tenian un sabor puritcalar pero agradable, hasta que ya salio Dorina y bueno es otra historia.Los munequitos de Mafalda y amigos me parece que venian de hecho si se compraba la caja, pero tambien se podian canjear por una cantidad de envolturas de las barras y tantos soles, y ya al final se conseguian por lo bajo, pero claro, el gancho era comprar la caja que costaba mas caro.En casa tuvimos algunos munequitos y me acuerdo que jugaba mucho con ellos hasta que fueron desapareciendo uno por uno

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  8. 3-7-2016

    También he visitado cafeterias presumiblemente las mejores, sin embargo, una muy pequeña con un barista que no hace gala de su sabiduria… Me ha preparado el mejor espresso de mi vida. A diferencia de otras de renombre con baristas de concurso que decepcionan, ¿Será que al obtener fama dejan de forzarse?.

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  23. 9-9-2016

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